Marseille.

Push a little west to Ninth Avenue and you get Marseille, a proper French brasserie that has been feeding Hell’s Kitchen theatergoers for the better part of two decades. On Wednesdays it opens at 11, on Saturdays even earlier, and the kitchen is quick without feeling rushed. Steak frites, a plate of oysters, a bowl of something warm. It feels like an occasion without demanding you dress like it is one.

The trade-off is the walk. Seven minutes east to the 44th Street theaters, a couple more if you are headed to 45th or 46th, so build in the extra time and do not order the three-course tasting if your curtain is at 2. But if you want your matinee lunch to feel like part of the day out rather than a pit stop, this is the one.

630 Ninth Avenue, at 44th Street, Hell’s Kitchen. Marseille is a French-Mediterranean restaurant that’s been doing the pre-theater thing right for years. The space is gorgeous. The moules frites ($28) are excellent. The steak frites ($38) is reliable.

They have a pre-theater prix fixe menu for around $45 (three courses) and they’re practiced at getting you fed and out the door in time for an 8 PM show. Make a reservation. This is a proper sit-down dinner in a neighborhood that desperately needs more of them.

The French sure know how to cook, which is why I can confidently say Marseille is one of the best restaurants open on Christmas day in New York City. Even the interior of the restaurant is subtly decorated with poinsettias and garlands, adding a charming touch to the space. For only $80 per person, folks can enjoy a delicious three-course Christmas dinner in NYC. The same menu and deal can be had on Christmas Eve from 5-9 PM, as well as Christmas Day from 12-10 PM.