Russ and Daughters Cafe.

127 Orchard Street, Lower East Side. This is my number one brunch in Manhattan and it’s not close. The original Russ and Daughters appetizing shop has been on Houston Street since 1914. The cafe is their sit-down restaurant and it takes everything great about the shop and turns it into a proper brunch experience.

The classic board ($28) with smoked salmon, cream cheese, capers, and toast is perfect. But the move is the Super Heebster ($22), which is a bagel with whitefish salad, wasabi-infused tobiko, and horseradish dill cream cheese. It sounds strange and it’s the best thing on the menu. The latkes ($16) are crispy on the outside and creamy inside. Egg creams ($6) are mandatory.

Reservations book up fast. Get them on Resy the moment they drop. Weekend brunch is hardest. Try a weekday, it’s the same food with half the crowd.

Orchard Street between Houston and Stanton. Take the F to 2nd Avenue.

The original Russ and Daughters appetizing shop on Houston has been around since 1914. The cafe is the sit-down version and it is exceptional. If you like smoked fish, this is the best place in New York. Possibly the best place anywhere.

The classic board comes with silky lox, cream cheese, capers, tomatoes, onions, and a warm bagel. It sounds simple because it is. But the quality of the fish here is in a different league. I also love the scrambled eggs with salmon and everything from the pastry case. The black and white cookie is the best version of that cookie in the city and I will argue about this with anyone.