What I wrote thereFold it away
541 Amsterdam Avenue (at 86th Street), Upper West Side. Barney Greengrass has been calling itself the Sturgeon King since 1908, and nobody has challenged the title because the sturgeon is, in fact, incredible. This is another appetizing store, like Russ and Daughters, focused on smoked fish, bagels, and eggs.
The scrambled eggs with Nova ($24) are legendary. Fluffy scrambled eggs with silky smoked salmon mixed in, served with a bagel on the side. The sturgeon (sold by the quarter pound, around $18) is rich, buttery, and unlike any other smoked fish you’ve had.
The restaurant side is cash only (yes, still, in 2026) and the vibe is old-school in the best way. Formica tables, fluorescent lights, waiters who’ve been there for decades. If you’re looking for the best bagels on the Upper West Side, starting here is not a bad plan.

